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Hi,
Sorry to confuse you deebee 🙁
No – I dont think you should blindly carry on. Advice is all well and good but the situation has changed and the advice IMO needs to change – because now you’ve said about your homework I’ve given it a different approach 🙂
I gave my advice because I didnt feel you had good control over him off-lead or when he was even seeing other dogs let alone greeting them. I didnt want you to end up with him in a fight or biting as a result so I gave you my “safe mode” to make sure no harm comes to you two while you are sorting your head out a bit so you know what you’re doing 🙂
If she is thinking the walk itself is reward enough then you absolutely must “non reward” for behaviour you dont want. This means that when you are walking he walks heel-close and not infront of you or mouthing your hand you need to use the “turning technique” she’s shown you (thisway heel-close walk on is what i use for a turn towards me) it needs to be delivered fast(ish) and firm and if he breaks it then you turn again straight away no messing if he breaks it a third time i would settle him into a stand in heel position wait for his focus and then try again. If he’s determined to booger and not learn go in and do it in a while. Dont even think of rewarding him with a lovely off-lead run at the park until you can get there without him pulling 🙂
If you meet another dog on the way (look where your going please you might hurt yourself) re-cue him immediately – i use “leaveit heel-close” or “ahah” if I am doubtful they’ll obey me as they are my strongest cues in that situation (you should be voice rewarding anyway). Either walk on or turn round – whichever is easiest to get out of the situation, preferrably before you get to the point where he reacts so you remain in control. Think ahead – avoid any blind corners or bends even if it means you have to cross the road to look and cross back again it’ll be good practice for your cues 🙂
If you should get to the park then you can use other dogs there to “practice with” – keep just out of the distance you know he’ll react and keep him focussed on you doing cues and praise etc… and gradually move closer (use an arc or serpentine not head on or from behind) if you lose the focus stop rewards (voice and going to see other dog) and get out back to your safe distance. Dont get close up to other dogs that are onleads, muzzled, have toys or look tense. They are indicators that the dog may be more reactive (e.g. other dogs in training, toys are a resource and some dogs guard, muzzles can be for stopping hounds chase or biting and a tense/stressed dog is never a good bet. Look at the owner too – avoid owners who arent taking a blind bit of notice of their dog, especially if they are on the phone and dont assume anything – dogs can be lovely to kids but awful with other dogs for example 🙂
I wouldnt let him off-lead as I dont think he would come if you called him when another dog was around.
Claire x