While out on a walk

[Anonymous]

I think we are at criteria 2, training very good in house and garden.

What im not sure about as its very early days, is that when we are out how do we conduct our walks ? she doesnt listen to what we say as she is too busy sniffing and been nosey.

Do we try going up a criteria and try to get the cues while on a walk or do we just let her be nosey and to get to know the outdoors for a week or 2.

:help:

Gem, Carl & Willow

[kerrie and stan]

i think you should start getting the training in now as it will be harder to change a habit at a later date

[kizkiznobite]

the only thing you teach her by allowing her to sniff about now is not to come back, not to be around your feet, so you need to get the recall fluent before letting her off at high criteria locations….start adding in a whistle cue…around the house and garden….with the added go play to send her off cue so she learns the difference…you will get enough extinction once she out in the world and hormones kick in and she discovers the joys of water and dogs and squirrels etc…but if you get the cues in now it will be much easier to repair than if she learns un cued freedom first….

[Anonymous]

We have read about the whistle and wanted to add it in so do we say cue her then whistle then say the cue again??

Also while out on a walk she refuses to take the treats we give her how do we get her to do what we want if she wont take the treat?
Before we leave the garden we get her to sit so we can put on her lead and make her wait until we open the gate which she does then she gets to top of drive and we cue her to sit before crossing the road which she does, then we walk the short distance to the park and as soon as we get to the park she refuses treats and doesnt do as we say.
She always does what we ask in the house and garden with treats,so how can we continue outside the garden?

[kizkiznobite]

no hun…the rule is new cue old cue until you can drop the old cue

thats one of the reasons i always teach all visual cues first…makes life easier when adding in whistle cues

so if her recall is ‘come’ then whistle…..my whistle is 3 blasts for a recall….

so it 3 blasts, then ‘come’…remember it not come and sit or lie or do a belly dance…it just a return to you….so recall…. i click a pup for the decision…so click as she looks and turns and make yourself exciting …and then have reward ready for when she arrives….get that fluent then click when half way towards you…get that fluent …then when at you….
when you getting 9/10 on verbal …then add the whistle as above….then when that fluent…drop the verbal and just use whistle

acme 2 10.5 gunner whistle

[Anonymous]

sorry to sounds thick but what is the click?

[kizkiznobite]

sorry thought i had read you using a clicker…

ok your marker…the ‘noise’ that tells the dog she done what you wanted…

[Anonymous]

maybe a good idea to add the clicker too..wot do u think?

also bev while we are learning the whistle in house and garden should we still practise in the park? or make sure its fluent?

we dont let her off the lead in the park. would you think its a good idea to get one of those training leads now?

[kizkiznobite]

lots of posts on here about clicker…it a brill tool but only if used correctly…you must learn or be taught how to use it and novice users should never use it off home ground until they also flunet and understand how it works

you need to have another read me thinks of the criteria stuff….you never up a criteria unless you have fluency at the one you working at…you dont use your cues at the higher criteria either if you not got fluency at that criteria…they will ‘burn out’ otherwise….

rules of puppy training:

best place to be is around your feet
teach at the learning speed of the pup
dont allow extinction before you have trained in a cue
work through each criteria ….with out rushing ….on each behaviour…so you may have sit at 5 but down at only 1….the aim is martine cues…anytime anyplace anywhere….visual verbal and whistle…using whichever is the more fluent in any behaviour…..so for example cuberts sit is more fluent if a verbal cue is given but his down is more fluent with a visual…..

if you are going to use a lunge….i dont at this stage i save it for the ‘reminder’ training when dog discovers world and starts being a pain in the ass. as it adds the bonus of dog will work better in order not to be lunged……but if you do then you need the leash work cued well ….otherwise the pup will learn the advantage of being on a long lose leash and that will risk teaching the pup to pull….

on a lunge the pup should stay by your side unless told to go play go sniff go greet or whatever

and remember the 5 mins a month rule for out door exercise….

[Anonymous]

Thanks bev will re read through the criterias and make sure we are fluent before moving on. Thanks for ur help, im sure more questions will follow lol.

we stick to the 5 mins per month rule.  :ok:

[kerrie and stan]

just please dont buy a flexi lead, they are horrid, much better to have them on a long line :ok:

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